Tobago, half of the island republic of Trinidad and Tobago, is revered for its untouched natural beauty and yet-to-be-discovered gems. It is a place of lush vegetation and clear azure waters where battles have been fought, lost, and left their mark on the island. Kevin Kenny, VP, of Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association says there are approximately 20 wrecks, 3 ‘hotspots’, and over 1 million artifacts in Scarborough Harbour. There’s a romantic mystique that’s felt along the northern coast. Northern Tobago is far from the busyness of tourist traps. It feels remote. In 2023, my family and I stayed in Bloody Bay. It was our mini getaway during my homecoming trip to Trinidad. From our Airbnb rental, we had a panoramic view of the bay. The view’s only interruption was heliconia and fruit trees on the property. Here are my highlights from visiting Northern Tobago.
Bloody Bay Northern Tobago
The name ‘Bloody Bay’ is wrapped in mystery. Its origin story varies. Some say there was a time when the bay ran red with blood during colonial battles. One such battle was the 1677 French-Dutch battle in Scarborough, then known as Roodklyp Baai. However, there could be a more peaceful explanation.
Edward Hernandez, curator, of the Tobago Museum says: “In the old times, Mangroves were cut down in Bloody Bay to gain coloring agents. Their juice made the waters look blood red. And ‚Man O‘War Bird‘ is the local name for Frigate Birds, which nest in large numbers on the rocks close to the East coast of Tobago.”
Then there’s there’s the Dutch connection. It is said that 17th-century Dutch maps show the name “Rasphuys Bay“. Rasphuis, according to English historian Simon Schama, was a 17th-century workhouse in Amsterdam where brazilwood was powdered to produce dye.
Where We Stayed
My family and I stayed very close to Bloody Bay Beach, in an Airbnb. I was attracted to the Bloody Bay Airbnb property for its remote location and naturalist vibe. It was the ideal place for our kids to see island’s flora and fauna in all their glory. The sea view from the veranda was an added perk. At night you would just about hear the waves crashing on the rocks. Then, in the mornings we awoke to the call of the Cocrico (Ortalis ruficauda), the national bird of Tobago. Personally, it was not a melodious sound to my ears but it was all part of the experience.
The outdoor bathroom was a dream! Partly open to the elements with an invigorating rainfall shower head and spouts embedded in the walls. Shower time at the end of a balmy day was absolute bliss.
Best of all, Bloody Bay Beach was a mere 4 minutes drive from the house. At the time of our visit, the facilities were closed. We only walked along the shore to better appreciate the view.
Where We Ate
The Airbnb was kitted out for self-catering. However, we opted to eat out. I wanted the kids to try as much local cuisine as possible. Whatever we didn’t eat it was becasue we forgot or had to space for. On one occasion we ate at the seafront restaurant, the Suckhole in Charlottesville. The restaurant was roughly 40 minutes’ drive from our accommodation. We had the most tasty seafood, two years later my mouth still waters.
We also had yummy freshly cooked on-the-spot burgers from Lee’s Delights in Parlatuvier (run by Linda Daniel). It was somewhat closer to us, roughly 15 15-minute drive from our lodgings.
After two nights in Bloody Bay we went to Crown Point and ate more Tobago treats there.
Visitors Tip: You MUST try Miss Trimms Curry Crab meal on Store Bay
Northern Tobago Beaches
I couldn’t recommend the Bloody Bay area more highly as a place to visit and stay. It’s a remote gem of pure beauty in northern Tobago. From there, you have Englishman’s Bay 17 minute’s drive one way and Charlotteville in the other. Further along, in Speyside there is the idyllic Indian Bay. It’s clear gentel waters against a pretty backdrop of trees and flowers is perfect for families. NOTE: there are many stairs to walk down to get to the beach.
Adventure travellers can take to the forest trails. However, we didn’t due to the age of our children and the humidity. They were not used to Caribbean humidity. Thrill seekers who want to go beyond, for big adventures, visit the Tobago tourism website. You can find local tour guides and more on there.
It was a wonderful holiday! As a family, we created many memories and had new experiences together in Tobago. It was our first holiday outside of the UK. I’m so thrilled that my children had the opporunity to meet their extended family and learn more about Trinbago.
What was your most rememorable family holiday? Tell us in the comment box below. I would love to hear from you AND you never know you just might inspire someone for their next getaway.
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